Why rust is a real issue in Northern Michigan
Northern Michigan presents several environmental factors that accelerate corrosion:
- Road salt and de-icing chemicals: Salt (and other de‐icers) strongly accelerate corrosion by lowering the freezing point of water, enhancing moisture contact with metal, and encouraging chemical reactions.
- Moisture, winter cycles and thaw/freeze: Snow, ice, and subsequent thawing mean water gets into seams, hidden cavities and undercarriage areas, then sits, freezes, expands, and breaks down protective coatings or paint.
- Hidden, hard‐to‐inspect areas: The undercarriage, wheel wells, inside rocker panels, door seams, floor pans—all places where moisture and salt can congregate. Unless you pay attention these can quietly corrode.
- New vehicles aren’t immune: Even a brand‐new car with modern coatings can still be exposed to the above stresses. Early prevention is much better than trying to fix rust later.
Basic rust‐prevention habits you should adopt
Regardless of any special treatments, these are foundational:
- Regular washes
- Especially in winter: aim to wash the undercarriage, wheel wells, sills, and lower panels every 2 weeks (or more often) after heavy salt exposure.
- Focus on removing salt, slush, road grime, debris that trap moisture.
- Use a high‐pressure hose / underbody wash if possible to reach the underside.
- Waxing / protective sealants
- After washing, a good wax or paint sealant will add a barrier between metal and moisture/contaminants.
- At minimum, do this before winter and maybe mid‐winter.
- Inspect and maintain drain holes, seals, chips
- Water can pool in door bottoms, sunroof drains, rocker panels, and other cavities. Clear debris from drain holes so water doesn’t sit.
- Check for paint chips or bare metal—once the paint is compromised, rust can start. Touch up small chips promptly.
- Storage & parking practices
- If you can, park in a garage or covered space to reduce exposure to salt and moisture. If outside, consider a breathable car cover.
- However: when a vehicle is dragged inside with lots of salt still attached, the melting salt/water can accelerate corrosion if left unattended. (Some mechanics caution about this effect.)
- Seasonal inspections
- At least once a year (ideally late winter/early spring) inspect the undercarriage, frame rails, mounts, suspension components for early signs of rust or corrosion. Catching things early saves money.
By keeping up these habits, you dramatically reduce your risk of rust developing. But given you live in a harsh environment for vehicles, it’s smart to layer on additional protection. That’s where Krown comes in.
How Krown rust‐control treatments work
The Krown system offers more than just a “spray undercoating.” Here are the key features and the pros to know:
- What is it? Krown is a petroleum‐based rust inhibitor that is designed to penetrate seams, spot-welds, cavities, hidden metal surfaces, and then create a moisture‐repelling barrier.
- It also lubricates moving parts and protects electrical connections (not just the obvious exposed metal).
- The application process is thorough: According to Krown’s site, technicians treat the undercarriage, all rocker panels, wheel wells, electrical connections, door seams, body panels, frame rails, etc.
- Annual Treatment: Krown recommends annual re‐application to maintain 12 months of protection.
- Works on new or used vehicles. It’s not only for already rusted cars.
Why this is valuable for your Northern Michigan vehicle
- Because your vehicle will face heavy salt exposure and hidden corrosion risk, having a penetrating rust inhibitor that literally gets into seams and cavities gives you another layer of defence beyond just washing/waxing.
- With an annual approach, you’re essentially maintaining a “living” barrier rather than a one-time coating that may crack, peel or trap moisture.
- When done early (i.e., on a new vehicle), you’re preserving the condition from the outset rather than trying to chase corrosion later when it’s already set in.